MacGyver, the magic Bolivian bus
The Passport Junkie braintrust just returned from a quick ‘research’ trip to Bolivia (8 days) & Peru (7 days), so here’s some up-to-date info for anybody else planning a trip. I’ll stick mainly to logistical details…if you’re interested in photos or more of a storytelling approach feel free to check the dispatches from my personal trip blog. As a note of preface, we had no advance reservations or bookings for any portion of this trip except for our flight home from Lima to San Francisco. Hope you will find this information helpful.
Quick note on money: If you bring cash to exchange or use to pay for tours/etc, make sure your bills are in good shape (no tears, even tiny ones, around the edges).
Flew into La Paz from Miami – altitude hit us right away (literally as we were walking down the aisle of the plane!). Highly recommend starting to take diamox before you arrive if La Paz is your first stop; otherwise get acclimated by coming overland for a couple days.
La Paz to Copacabana: From La Paz airport, we headed straight for Copacabana – caught a bus that left El Alto (area where the airport is located) rather than from La Paz central…was a 3 hour ride, 30 Bolivianos per person. Two hours into the drive you have to cross Lake Titicaca – the bus goes on its own barge, and you have to catch a water taxi (3 Bolivianos). Recommend not wasting time and getting on the first water taxi you can – your bus may not wait for you on the other side, as we nearly found out the hard way!
In Copacabana, stayed at the Las Kantutas Hotel – very nice place for the cost (50 Bolivianos for a double room with private bath). Copacabana was a good place for us to start – a pretty small and relaxed town. Definitely get some fresh Lake Titicaca trucha for lunch or dinner! Did a day trip to the Isla del Sol, complete with the 3 hour hike – was pretty warm and hike, though along a nice path, was a bit tougher than expected (perhaps altitude effects). But great views of the islands and lake are to be had along the way. The hike ends in Yumani, which has some amazingly lush gardens (and cool shade!). You can also stay in Yumani, and there are plenty of hostels and restaurants and several more under construction…some places with great views.
Buses leave Copacabana all day long until about 7PM, there’s plenty of competition so prices are pretty standard, between 20-30 Bolivianos. Had an interesting experience arriving in La Paz near the cemetary…cabs roughly queue on the street, but police wait there as well, and verified each cab that bus passengers boarded – we bailed on the first cab when the cop stuck his head in to tell us it was not safe to go with the guy we had picked – he was unlicensed or something to that effect, though one would never know it by looking at his car which seemed to have the official-looking appointments (bar & light up top, ‘radio taxi’ painted on the doors).
First hotel we checked was full but second had room – Eva Palace Hotel in central La Paz (173 Calle Sagarnagra), 140 Bolivianos for double room (3 star hotel). Dined on Bolivian street food, of which there is plenty in central La Paz.
La Paz to Rurrenabaque: We flew on Amaszonas – paid the maximum walk-up fare of $75 per person, one way. Amaszonas has 4 flights per day but cancels often due to both weather or lack of reservations…be sure to call to confirm a day ahead of time, and morning of any flights. Also when buying on Amaszonas, be sure you actually purchase a ticket…there was some confusion when we showed up for our return flight, turned out we had only a reservation and not a ticket…fortunately got the last two seats anyway, but was a bit of a scare nonetheless. Military airline TAM also has about 3 flights per week to Rurrenabaque, though not sure on which days of the week those ones go.
Rurrenabaque – stayed at the Hotel Oriental, decent value for 80 Bolivianos – nice central courtyard with hammocks, on the ‘edge’ of town but the town is small anyway, 10 minutes walk one side to the other. Checked out the big nightlife spots, but unfortunately the goings were slow. FYI, street gutters in Rurre run along the edges of all streets, and some streets have no lighting – good idea to bring along a pocket torch if you have one, especially if you’ve been boozing. Stepping into a gutter in the dark can be a rude surprise 
Went on the 3 day pampas tour with Indigena Tours – was quite a popular tour operator, about 18 people in total, split into 3 groups of 6-8. Got a late start when the car ran out of petrol about 5 minutes outside of town – commencing a mad shopping spree for petrol at various people’s houses where our driver would emerge victorious with a 2-liter coke bottle of fuel! But soon enough we were on the water spotting the first of many many capybayra, caiman, alligator, and birds (among other fauna). Overall, tour was great and definitely recommended – just be ready for a tough day when you go looking for anacondas…slogging through tall grass in the heat and humidity takes energy! Also, waking up to the sounds of howler monkeys was pretty cool – they sound like something out of horror film. Indigena has two camps, primary one has the bar, nicer bathrooms/showers, and a nice lookout deck. Secondary one has a cool circular hammock room for relaxing and socializing. Good times at meals and afterwards socializing amongst the groups and the staff – including some impromptu concerts put on by the staff. Despite more auto troubles on day three, we made it in time to catch the last Amaszonas flight out to La Paz.
La Paz to Cusco – we flew on Aerosur, cost was $100 USD per person one way (purchased this at the Amaszonas/Aerosur office in Rurrenabaque). They fly 727 jets, ours had about 20 people total so plenty of space to strech out. They even served a box lunch en route.
